Surviving the Bay of Biscay: A Photography Trip to Fort Boyard

FRANCESEAFORTLA ROCHELLE

8/30/20232 min read

Whenever we go on holiday, my wife’s first request is usually a boat trip. However, since our excursion to La Rochelle, that enthusiasm has noticeably dampened. It turns out that while the destination was stunning, the journey through the Bay of Biscay was anything but a calm Mediterranean cruise.

I must admit, I hadn’t heard much about La Rochelle before we booked, but apparently, I was the only one. It’s a beautiful coastal city, and one afternoon we decided to take a boat out to see the legendary Fort Boyard. As a teenager, I grew up watching the UK version of the show hosted by the unlikely duo of "Dirty Den" (Leslie Grantham) and Melinda Messenger. Back then, I assumed the fort was probably a mile off the Isle of Wight; I didn't realize it was a real Napoleonic-era sea fort sitting in the middle of the French Atlantic.

The "Bus" on the Bay

What no one warned us about was the sheer volatility of the Bay of Biscay. We boarded what looked and sounded exactly like a city bus with a boat hull attached. Everything started smoothly, but as we hit open water, things went south rapidly. The waves became massive—at one point, several passengers who were brave enough to stand on the bow were actually thrown back into the cabin by a rogue wave. It felt more like a high-stakes roller coaster than a sightseeing tour.

While my wife reached her final straw with travel sickness, I have to confess, as a husband, I was less than helpful. I found the chaotic, bouncing "water-bus" experience quite funny. There’s something about the raw power of the ocean that makes for a great story, even if you’re gripping your seat for dear life.

The Shot

When you look at this photograph of Fort Boyard, you’d never guess the crossing was so treacherous. The fort looks serene, a stoic oval of stone rising from the blue. It’s a reminder that photography often captures the "lovely scene" while hiding the chaotic, wave-battered reality just outside the frame.

Photography Notes:
Location: Pertuis d'Antioche (Off the coast of La Rochelle), France.
Subject: Fort Boyard (19th-century Napoleonic sea fort).
The Composition: The shot captures the stoic, oval stone structure rising serenely from the Atlantic. By focusing on the calm appearance of the fort, the image creates a striking contrast with the chaotic reality of the crossing.